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Now for something completely non adventure related. This was passed along to me recently. How many buzz phrases from Corporate America can you find? Relate to?
Happy Holidays!
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To all,
Sorry about the late notice, but I had a lot on my plate and I'm just getting the bandwidth to reach out to you now. Over the past few years, I have raised my game to a level that I never thought imaginable, but I have something else in the pipeline which needs to be addressed.
Feel free to leverage any materials that I may have or set up a knowledge transfer session with me. I wouldn't want you guys to reinvent the wheel after I leave. In a happy path scenario, I would be able to be a team player and have a one-on-one with each of you, but I want to manage your expectations appropriately, so after this week, I will be out of pocket, so that may be out of scope for me. I have many lessons learned from my time here that I would like to brain dump to you.
Going forward, I will be getting my ducks in a row so I can hit the ground running at ****. I look forward to touching base with many of you after rolling off.
What is the ICEHOTEL? Besides being a cool place (ok I just had to) it is the first and largest snow and ice hotel in the world. A friend of mine mentioned it recently which inspired me to check the website for some virtual travel. I thought it would be simple igloos and snow shelters similar to what mountaineers create when climbing in Alaska, Antarctica, etc. When I saw the pictures I was stunned!
This winter is the 20th anniversary of the concept. Every year team of snow builders, architects, designers and artists from all over the world gather in the little town of Jukkasjärvi far north of the Arctic Circle in the Lapland area of Sweden to create a temporary masterpiece out of ice from the nearby river.
Visitors fly into the nearby town of Kiruna from Stockholm or London. You can also arrive via an overnight train from Stockholm. Transportation to the hotel is then by bus, snowmobile or dogsled. Once at the hotel accommodations are either in an ice room (temps stay about 23 F/ -5 C) or in a hotel that is much warmer being constructed of wood and stone.
Activities, besides hanging out at the Icebar—yup made of ice also—include snowshoeing and snowmobile tours which should be no surprise during the winter. For other activities I leave it to you to explore their website and photos.
Get out and Explore the World!
Picture Credit: Åke Larsson, Mikael Nille Nilsson & Sofi Ruotsalainen, Sweden.
Map Credit: ICEHOTEL.com
Day 12 Tuesday May 26th: We woke up early to strike camp. We were tired after our sojourn to the top of North America but there was a calm energy amongst the group. We knew that the summit was only half the trip. Until we were safe in Talkeetna we could not afford to let our guard down. After a hasty dehydrated meal for breakfast we packed up camp. This took considerable time since there was plenty to pack, we were tired and still at 17,200 feet. We had packed for five days at high camp and only ended up spending two. The NPS rangers were very happy to take our food which lightened our load. Without Colin we all packed a little extra. Carrying a full pack at 17k is as tiring as it sounds.
Our goal for the day was either the 9800 or 7800 camp. With the weather forecast to change the next day and how tired we were getting to either camp was a reach. Many of the groups were already heading down by the time we left high camp. We had no problems until the end of the ridge where climbers were waiting their turn for the fixed ropes.
Real estate with a view
Gabe, Dan and Haliku ready to go
The hardest section of the whole route
Going down a 55 degree slope with a loaded pack at 16k is just not fun. It required a lot of patience with the number of climbers slowly descending. Many were also going up to high camp. I did not envy them. Once off the ropes we were enveloped in clouds rising from below. The visibility and temperatures both dropped as did a light snow for the remainder of our route to 14 camp.
We cached a lot of food and gear before we went higher. Now everything needed to go with us—food, gear, garbage, etc.—that came up with six climbers on two separate trips. With the forecasted lousy weather it was easy to quickly give away 40 pounds of food. One might get the impression we brought too much along but keep in mind it was our 12th day of what we planned to be a 21 day trip (plus four days of emergency food). Subtract Colin’s appetite from the equation and we had a lot of extra calories. Many of the climbers who took food had carried to high camp the day before and cached a lot of their own. When on Denali extra food means your trip doesn’t have to end early due to hunger. If you wanted to travel light and weren’t a picky eaters you could factor in the food give-aways at 14 camp as part of the meal plan. It is a common sight to see a climber pulling a sled around camp loaded with food in an attempt to lighten their load. I would not recommend this approach.
After a few hours of packing we left 14 camp one last time with loaded packs, two full sleds and a stuffed drag bag. Thankfully Windy Corner did not live up to its name this time so we quickly traveled on to 11 camp. The crevasses, more pronounced now that when we came this way a week earlier, caused us no problems.
Once at 11 camp it was obvious we were not going any lower today as we were all very tired. With well practiced precision we quickly set up camp while Gabe got food and water ready. Another cache was dug up and its contents were added to the pile. At least we each had a sled to repack the mountain of stuff.
Day 13 Wednesday May 27th: The alarm went off early and as is often a habit in such environments I hit the snooze to avoid starting the day for a few more minutes. Thirty minutes later the other alarm sounded. As the motivation to start the day built I realized it was snowing. Not fluffy Christmas card picture type of snow but a heavy snow, wind driven. I stuck my head out the back vestibule; it was the snowstorm the weather folks had predicted. To make matters worse the visibility was very limited, at best 20 feet.
Motivation was even harder now that we had weather to deal with if we wanted to get to basecamp any time soon. 11 camp can get up to eight feet of snow so we did not want to spend the next several days here if we could help it. The team worked quickly to strike camp and load sleds and packs for the journey. A few time people asked if they could follow us down. One guy asked if he could tie in with our rope. Since he was a guide (for one of the authorized services) he was more familiar with the route than any of us so we took him on.
Packing up for one last drag from 11 Camp
I had recorded GPS waypoints and the route we took on the way up the mountain. So with the GPS, and map and compass as a backup, we headed out of camp in 10-20 foot visibility. The going was rough as visibility frequently decreased to arms length. The suggestions I had read about wanding the route on the lower mountain came to my mind. We had not followed this approach as there were many wands from numerous groups already in place. At least they seemed numerous on the way up. By trusting the GPS and not second guessing it we slowly made it from one landmark to the next and soon were headed down Ski Hill. The winds increased and the visibility dropped as we went lower. At one point I could not see at all as my glasses became snow packed. Our tag along guide offered to take the sharp end and we deftly passed the crevasse area and were at the larger and climber packed 7800 camp.
With no desire to set up camp other than at the airfield we pushed on. Now the relatively flat glacier was throwing more challenges at us with crevasses and flat light. The poor visibility continued. So poor as to confuse a Korean team we ran into who were actually going back up the glacier towards 7800 camp! That wasn’t the way they wanted to go either. When they heard we had GPS they fell in line behind us. As we worked our way down the glacier other groups joined in. Once at the base of Heartbreak Hill we had over twenty climbers with us.
Some of our followers before Heartbreak Hill who lacked a GPS unit
The hill is well named. At this point we had been moving, almost non stop, for eight hours with heavy packs and sleds and we were very tired. The hill sucked our remaining energy as we slowly plodded up towards camp. I don’t know what the others did to push on but I found myself counting…one-two, one-two, one-two…repetitively as I moved my feet. It was a long slow push at the end of a slog.
While Kiefer checked in for our flight, we were 25th, we quickly set up camp. Our first task was to dig up our last cache and liberate the cases of beer that we buried almost two weeks earlier. That was one of the best beers I had ever drunk. It was certainly well earned as was the sleep.
Dan, Gabe and Craig with a well deserved beer
Day 14 Thursday May 28th: We woke to falling snow and a very low cloud ceiling which guaranteed no planes would be flying, possibly for several days. Since we were several loads down the list there was no worry about needing to pack in a hurry.
Alaskan friend of ours, Mark and Thomas, had arrived in the middle of the ‘night’ having followed the now zig-zag wand route down the glacier from 7800 camp. They set up their tepee kitchen tent next door and we moved in for the day bringing a couple of stoves, plenty of food and any alcohol we had left. A couple of Colorado climbers, Cindy and Val, joined us bringing homemade pancakes to go with the bacon we fried up from our cache. With 10-12 climbers packed inside the stories and cooking continued all day while it continued to snow. The weather report that evening called for up to five more days of similar weather. That was disappointing as we had already finished the beer! It was a great day getting to know our neighbors instead of short conversations about the weather or the route ahead of us. It was also a relief to be safe in camp and have the mountain and its dangers behind us.
An all day eating and drinking fest. The tent held 10-12 climbers.
Day 15 Friday May 29th: Since any sense of urgency was removed by the forecast the night before there was no hurry to wake up and get breakfast. Excited voices, from the teams around us, woke me. I poked my head out the back vestibule to actually see some blue sky! The excitement was a plane on the way and as the vanguard would evaluate the conditions before the other pilots would take to the air. The odds of our return to Talkeetna were increasing with every minute of blue sky. Our placement at 25 meant we could get out on the fourth flight from Talkeetna Air Taxi (TAT). We started to organize and pack—just in case—which was good as we got out on the last two flights. The last two for several more days as the weather moved back at basecamp.
Haliku looking for blue sky in the morning
Departure line for the plane
Dan and Craig behind Gabe, Haliku and Kiefer before returning to Talkeetna
A stop to the ranger station to check out of the park was first on our list. Then beer before well needed showers. Food and drink soon followed!
The stats the day we left the glacier
Craig has his eye on Kiefer's burger at the West Rib Restaurant
I want to thank the entire team for the work each put into this trip. It was a group effort and that effort was needed to summit and return without any lasting issues. Climb on!
The title says everything and also very little at the same time. It is a broad statement that people can interpret as they wish. For some, exploration is done in an armchair with a favorite book or TV remote. Others learn about themselves and the world through charity work in their community. A smaller number learn by, as I have long called it, exercising their passport. These examples and every possible adventure in between is still exploration; it is learning and exploring the world that is important. The what or why of one's exploration are just as varied and are often very personal.
I have mentioned previously that my love of exploration is because of my parents. Not only did they subscribe to National Geographic magazine for many years they took my brother and I to museums, local cultural festivals and on trips to other parts of the country. The thrill of seeing a place for first time burns not just the sight but the sounds, the smells and other details of the location into my memory.
Humans have always been explorers. How else did the Vikings find North America in the early 11th century? Or find the excellent moral mushroom patch outside a small park in NW Iowa one early June day? Even our TV fiction frequently portrays explorers. How many of you already know Dora? Or Dr Henry Walton Jones?
I recently was introduced to an online book, Exhilarating Freedom in the Andes, by Chris Goulet. The book is a worthy read in itself as it documents his travels in the Andes by bike.
One chapter is titled The Explorer-Adventurers, his reflections on explorer adventures both old and new. After I read it his thoughts really resonated with me. I would of liked to be the author of such a piece of prose but I am not. Glad I am to have read it and to share it with others. Remember to get out and explore the world, you will be better for it.
The Explorer-Adventurers by Chris Goulet
We have an insatiable thirst to experience the world firsthand.
We derive intense satisfaction in challenging difficult, insecure and uncomfortable environments.
We take the time to observe and absorb, because we are not racing. We are not competing with anyone but ourselves.
Our encounters with vastly different environments, lifestyles, and beliefs profoundly expand our interest and awareness of the world.
Witnessing meager standards of living forever changes our perception of the western preoccupation with striving for material wealth.
When we return home, we feel delighted at regaining the little pleasures that have been denied to us in faraway lands.
We have frequent flashbacks of our expeditions and take pleasure in telling others our experiences.
We become tolerant of petty annoyances or discomforts and become patient in our projects.
But the ceasing of discovery and strong sensations precipitate in us a long emotional slump.
Sensations we once held to be exciting become less so.
Is it worth it? Like they say, "It's better to have loved (traveled) and lost (come home) than never to have loved at all."
Once we have eaten from the tree of knowledge, we cannot go back to ignorance.
While on expeditions, our attention is intensely focused and nothing else matters, but back home it is difficult to concentrate on what we are doing.
Our successes strongly reinforce our self-esteem. We can do anything, but we find we don't really want to do anything but explore.
We dream of more adventures, and when preoccupation turns to obsession, we are bound to realize them.
We are fascinated with the stories of other explorers and we plan our expeditions to avoid their misfortunes.
Are we escaping from something or have we been unfortunate with normal life? The true weight of these factors lies hidden from us.
What do we search for? We don't really know, until we find it.
Ultimately, we explore to find ourselves.
Our passion for adventure continues...
With a race named 'Stone Cat' I thought about a pity play of words for my title. What I got was a blank screen so on to Plan B--the actual race report.
Last week I left Colorado for Maine to meet up with my brother and his friends--all who live in Portland, ME. I landed just at sunset allowing me to get a good look at the city as we flew over it at the water's edge. The setting sun provided a final glow to the trees still wreathed in their fall colors. While I had been concerned that a marathon in November was foolish due to weather impacts I was happy to see fall was still noticeable in this part of New England.
We headed directly out of the airport towards Ispwich, MA, or at least one of the towns adjacent to Ispwich. From my perspective one town looked like the next with their quaint architecture clashing with stripmall generica along the road as we sped by in the night.
Dinner was at a local Italian restaurant, the name of which I failed to note, which was near the Comfort Inn--our abode for the night. The food was good as was the service. Fellow Trail Monsters, a Portland running group, joined us for dinner. Ian was running the 50 M while Emma was crew support.
Once back at the hotel I prepared my clothing and gear for the early morning alarm. The forecast was favorable with lows in the upper 20s and a high of 50. Excellent running weather. Sleep came quickly even with the jet engine sounding heating unit in the room. Ear plugs will now be part of my race kit.
The hotel opened up breakfast at 0430 and fleece and Lycra clad runners descended on it. We quickly drained the coffee urns and came close to overheating the waffle makers as breakfast was consumed in preparation of the race. Pancakes were waiting for me in the room as Tim had cooked up a batch before leaving Portland the day before. The perfect pre-race food for me.
We arrived at the school in the predawn cold and proceeded to squeeze into their small gymnasium. It was tightly packed and difficult to keep out of the way. I enjoyed the people watching and listening to the many strong New England accents. I certainly wasn't in Colorado any more.
The race start was typical of many trail events, it was a 'gun' start. Even though we didn't move for a couple of minutes the pack of both 50 milers and the marathon quickly headed in two directions. The 50s went right down the trail while the rest of us looped around the school to gain the 1.2 miles needed to add to the two 12.5 mile loops of our course. The single track trail from the school field into the woods was a bottleneck that we could of done without. But being a trail race no one was worried to the point where they cut through the frosty bushes to get ahead. There would be plenty of time for passing ahead.
The course alternated between single track deer trails and old 4x4 dirt roads. Just when I would get tired of one trail type a fork in the trail would switch me to the other. Tim and I lost sight of Mindy ahead of us within the first hour. We continued running together the first loop. With the slower pace on the trail we were able to talk as we ran which is not typical in races of 1/2 marathon or shorter from my experience.
The first rest stop was Al Cats Lounge. Bacon was frying, pancakes were grilling and the volunteers were very quick to get you resupplied and on your way. There were too many choices. But with Tim's pancake breakfast I topped off my water bottle, had a slice of bacon and hit the trail. I could of stayed much longer. The trail was very well marked except for one spot that I wasn't certain if we went left or right as I saw flagging tape both directions. I recalled the trail map showed one spot where the course almost looped back on itself. We correctly chose to go left. This uncertain spot was eliminated by more signs I noted on my second lap.
The second station, Fast Freddie's Cafe, sneaked up on me. I was focusing on the trail to minimize the toe stubbing quality of the rocks and roots on the path when another well stocked rest stop appeared. A band was playing music while pancakes and other goodies were being offered. The volunteers were just as helpful as at Al Cats.
Shortly after we started to see runners going in the opposite direction for the first time. They were the pack leaders already heading out on their second loop. Mindy passed by, perhaps 10 minutes ahead of me, looking strong and fresh. The third and final supply station was at the start/finish line where Jamie, another Trail Monster, was assisting with practiced ease.
I headed out at a faster pace wanting to test the altitude advantage I had running almost 6000 feet lower than where I train. For a while it was very noticeable until mile 24 when my legs started to really give out. This race was a training run for me. I had only run farther than 20 miles once, the weekend before, so without a taper the Stone Cat was a long run. I hope to regain my running endurance to be able to attempt longer runs this winter and into spring.
The last two miles were slow with a few walking segments. The miles still passed quickly and a final burst of energy enabled me to run strong the final stretch to the finish where a finishers jacket was awarded instead of a medal on a ribbon. I didn't know what time to expect for this race since my rough trail practice was limited this year. I thought between 4 and 5 hours was likely, and it was as my time was in the middle.
The organizers, the volunteers, the food and the trail all made this a very enjoyable race. I will give serious thought to attempting the 50 mile race in the future. Thanks also to Mindy and Pete for their Maine hospitality.
Get out and Explore the World!
For any regular reader of my blog it is well known that climbing, especially alpine climbing, is a passion of mine. I recently spent three nights representing the American Alpine Club in the Denver area. The event was a climbing video and presentation that three The North Face athletes were presenting. One of those climbers is Conrad Anker. He is a top alpinist and an all around great guy. I have read his books, followed his climbs and gone to his presentations. I met his partners Jimmy Chin and Renan Ozturk also. Jimmy is an amazing photographer while Renan is an artist--video, photo or drawing. These guys spent some serious climbing karma in the Indian Himalaya on 22,000-foot Mount Meru last year. For any non-climbers consider this analogy--you are sitting around a table BSing with Tiger Woods and the other top golfers. And best of all they are great guys with no elitist attitude.
Here's a short video of them climbing in Eldorado State Park last week. I should of called in sick to work...
Thanks Dad!
Get out and Explore the World!
STONE CAT 50 MILE and MARATHON TRAIL RACES
Saturday November 7, 2009 6:15am
Willowdale State Forest, Ipswich, Massachusetts
The race starts and finishes at Doyon School 216 Linebrook Road in Ipswich. The course is all trails, a mix of double track and single track trail, all in Willowdale State Forest on a 12.5 mile loop. The course is very runnable but has a lot of rocks and some sections contain many roots. The terrain is rolling with the largest single hill being a 150 foot climb!
It is a mass start for both events. In order to spread the runners out the marathoners will first run a 1.2 miles loop around the school before joining the loop.
There will be at least three aid stations; at 4.2 miles, 7.5 miles, and start/finish of the loop.
And the best part for me, coming from the mile high city of Denver, is the elevation in Ipswich is around 50 feet!
Bring it!
I was warned that the race closes out early with 150 runners for each distance so I took the advice of a friend who is a trail running machine (thanks Barry) and put up the cash not knowing if I was even going to be in shape for the race. I've had several roadblocks to my running this year and until this week I didn't feel ready even for a marathon distance. So now I am primed and ready to go. This will be a 'training' run for me to get back to ultra distance so no taper will be preceding the race. I'll make sure I'm rested for it but the race isn't the end goal, only a stepping stone to longer distances.
Another benefit is my brother and his friend, Mindy, are also running the marathon so I know we'll at least start together and then celebrate afterwards. I'm also looking forward to meeting fellow trail runners and ultra freaks from the New England clan.
Get out and Explore the World!
I was in Europe for a last minute, unplanned, trip to backpack around with my brother, Tim, who recently ended his six month assignment in Sri Lanka with Doctors without Borders(MSF). He is employed by MSF-Holland so a visit to Europe was required after he left Asia. Also required, after six months in a war zone, was some R&R.
I joined him for a quick po-po platter sampling of three European cities--Amsterdam (first quiz), Cologne, Germany (2nd) and the Grand Duchy of Luxemburg (final).
We toured castles and visited museums while traveling by train, tram, bike and bus. Our time in each destination was short but we still found time to explore each area on foot during our daily morning runs and by local transport.
In reviewing my notes much of our time was spent sampling the local cuisine with the appropriate regional wine or beer selection. Yes we ate very well from the local street vendors offering regional snacks (picture of herring in Amsterdam) to the six course meals that stretched for hours. These meals were often a cultural experience beyond the food and drink as we watched the ebb and flow of the locals going about their day. Being late September the tourists were long gone so the vibe was more relaxed which made for great people watching. One take away, of the many, is the quality of Luxemburg wines. I have never seen Luxemburg wines in the USA which is a shame as they can stand up with the better known wines that are imported from Europe. If you find any in your local wine shop do not hesitate to give them a try.
For an area of the globe I always thought I'd save till my less adventurous (read: older) years I highly encourage you to visit sooner than later if you get the chance.
Get out and Explore the World!
I'm not certain if lack of response means the picture and hints are too hard or that few are bothering to read and comment lately.
Today found us in yet another city and country. The train system is so useful which makes it easy to get around. This country has excellent wine as well as many castles. Its rulers are noble and very supportive of the arts and the numerous museums. Hiking is also a great way to see the countryside. Where am I?
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